Importing Camera To iPad To Lightroom

Apple iPad Camera Connection Kit

Apple iPad Camera Connection Kit

When I ordered my 64GB iPad, my intention was to see if I could use it as a 90% laptop replacement. I’ve been using the Google cloud for my productivity more and more lately, so I’m really just down to the apps I need for photography, namely Adobe Lightroom and Photoshop, and presentations (though my slides are in Google Docs).

I wanted to explore the idea of simply bringing my iPad into the field and leaving my laptop at home. My usual routine in the field has been to import my cards from the camera to the computer every chance I got in-between shoots, edit and deliver if called upon to, and use the computer for storage until I got home, then move the photographs and catalogs to my workstation.

I’m happy to report that with the help of the iPad Camera Connection Kit, I am able to import from my cards (or directly from the camera via USB) into the iPad, use it to display and store my photos, then import them normally into Lightroom when I get home. Easy as pie, no muss, no fuss.

I still don’t know if I’m confident enough to leave my laptop at home yet, or how I would feel about being robbed of my ability to edit in the field, but proving the concept opens the door.

How To Create A Montage With Adobe Photoshop

Creating a montage with Photoshop has always been one of my favorite creative outlets. It gives me an opportunity to set my mind free and see my photography from a totally different perspective. It also enables me to use photos that are flawed, or that I might not be able to use otherwise, for whatever reason.

Here’s a step by step walkthrough of how I created a montage I call “Hidden Falls” using Adobe Photoshop.

Dusk sky at Valley of Fire, Nevada.

Dusk sky at Valley of Fire, Nevada.

Sky photo placed in new image with black background.

Sky photo placed in new image with a black background.

I started with a single photograph of the sky at dusk in the Valley of Fire in Nevada, with the outline of the rocks in silhouette. I always loved this photo, but never had the opportunity to use it.

I created a new image sized at 4800 by 6000 pixels. It’s a good idea to give yourself a fair amount of room to work when you haven’t totally visualized your creation yet.

Bonus tip: it’s probably best to work in low resolution until you solidify your ideas and know which images you’re going to use, then create the final montage in high resolution. Working in high resolution can be slow and frustrating when you’re trying to be creative.

Image of the Yosemite Fall added as a new layer.

Image of the Yosemite Fall added as a new layer.

Another bonus tip: whenever possible, make your changes non-destructively, using adjustment layers or smart objects, and label your layers, so you remember what you did. This gives you a path of retreat when you don’t like the way things are going, and enables you to make changes to any adjustments you make.

Screen blend mode eliminated the parts that werent black, and a brush on a Layer Mask cleaned up the remaining artifacts.

Screen blend mode eliminated the parts that weren’t black, and a brush on a Layer Mask cleaned up the remaining artifacts.

Yosemite Fall as seen from the walking trail.

Yosemite Fall as seen from the walking trail.

Conveniently, the rocks were silhouetted in the sky photo, giving me a blank canvas to work with, so I filled the background layer in my new image with black, then copied the photo into the image as a new layer, resizing it with Free Transform until it fit at the top. Now I had a large silhouette of a mountain scene with a nice dusk sky.

Detail photo of the face of El Capitan, Yosemite National Park.

Detail photo of the face of El Capitan, Yosemite National Park.

I found a photo of Yosemite Fall I’d taken from the walking trail, and brought it into the montage, moving it around until I found the right spot for it.The next step was to change the blend mode of that layer to Screen, removing all the black pixels against the sky. Then I added a layer mask and used a soft edged brush to paint away the artifacts that the Screen blend mode didn’t eliminate.The concept was starting to take shape—a waterfall hidden away between a larger set of rocks. What I needed was some rock textures that I could blend in.

Photo of El Capitan added as a new layer.

Photo of El Capitan added as a new layer.

I knew just the perfect image for that—a detail photo of El Capitan I’d taken on that same trip to Yosemite. I brought that photo into the canvas and positioned it to the left of the falls, then resized it to fit using Free Transform. Then I changed the blend mode of that layer to Linear Light, giving it a rich, warm color.I didn’t want to steal too much thunder from the falls themselves, so I decided to tone down the rock texture a bit by lowering the opacity of that layer to about 80%.

Then I added a layer mask and painted away the parts of the rock that didn’t belong in the sky and the bottom of the canvas, and varied the opacity of the brush to create some dramatic shadows along the edges of the rock textures.

Rock piece taken from an enlarged copy of the same original falls photo.

Rock piece taken from an enlarged copy of the original falls photo.

Rock piece image flipped.

Rock piece image flipped horizontally.

Now I needed more rocks on the right side of the falls. I tried using that same image of El Capitan again, but the textures didn’t blend with the rocks on the bottom of original falls image. I couldn’t find a photo in my collection that had better textures, so I decided to use the same image of the falls again. I enlarged it and cropped out a piece of the rocks.

There was some greenery that didn’t quite fit at the bottom of that piece, so I flipped it horizontally and positioned it where I could blend it in more easily. I brought the flipped piece into the scene and positioned it where I wanted it, to the right of the falls, then adjusted the color tones to match the rest of the canvas. Then I lowered the opacity to about 70% to blend it in further, added a layer mask and painted away the parts I didn’t need.

Time to play with the colors. I thought the sky was a little too bright, and didn’t really match the mood of the scene.

Almost done. Whats missing?

Almost done. What’s missing?

I decided to try adding a Gradient Fill, creating an effect similar to using an ND grad filter in real life for the sky. I then added a Photo Filter adjustment layer to deepen the colors and give the sky a more surreal look.

I added a few more Photo Filter adjustment layers to change the colors in the rocks so that they would blend with the rest of the scene a little better. I decided to go for a warmer glow in the larger rock faces and a cooler tone in the rocks immediately next to the bluish part of the falls.

At this point, I was going to crop off the bottom part of the canvas and call it done, but the montage didn’t feel complete to me.

After some thought, I decided what the scene needed was a foreground element of some kind. I thought about adding in a grassy patch or perhaps the sandy part of a beach, but then it occurred to me—not sandy, watery. I needed a reflection.

Piece of the bottom cropped and flipped upside down.

Piece of the bottom cropped and flipped upside down.

I cropped a piece out of the bottom of the falls and flipped it upside down, then nudged it into place on the bottom part of the canvas.

I went into Free Transform and widened the bottom part of the cropped piece slightly, to give it the correct perspective (as if I were viewing the scene while standing in that location).

I lowered the opacity of that layer to about 75% (the water would be 1 or 2 stops lower exposure-wise in real life), then added a little Motion Blur and a Ripple effect to that piece, giving it a more realistic watery look.
Hidden Falls
I hope this has inspired you to try creating montages of your own, if you haven’t already. If you have any montages you’d like to share, post the links here. I’d love to see them.

How To Get One Good Shot Out Of Two Bad Ones With Photoshop CS4

You’ve probably been there. You’re shooting an event, running around all over, trying to capture anyone and everyone, taking advantage of any impromptu group poses when you happen upon them, not really sure what you have or don’t have. Everything happens in a whirlwind, and you’re observing it all through this tiny portal on the back of your camera, and whatever shows up in your peripheral vision.

You finally get a little time to import your shots off the card, sit back and go through them, and then you see it… two great shots of two old friends who haven’t seen each other in a long time.

There’s just one problem—neither of the two shots works. One of the two people looks great in one shot, and the other looks great in the other.

Nowhere else in your pile is there a shot of these two particular subjects together, so now you’re stuck having to either deliver these as they are or trashing them.

But wait! Don’t give up yet! You can combine them into one great shot simply and quickly using Adobe Photoshop CS4 to create what’s known as a composite.

Here’s how:

Open both photos as layers in Photoshop, or combine them as layers after opening them. If you need to fix color and tonality in Lightroom or Camera RAW, do that first. (Tip: In Lightroom, you can select both, right-click and choose “Edit In > Open as Layers in Photoshop…“.)

The next step is to make sure the two photos are aligned, so that all the static elements (trees, walls, etc.) line up exactly. Start by selecting both layers.

From the Edit menu “Auto-Align Layers…”.

When the Auto-Align Layers dialog box comes up, simply choose the default, which should be “Auto”, and click “OK”.

When it’s done, go to the top layer and add a layer mask. Remember—black conceals, white reveals. You want a white one, which “reveals” all of the top layer.

Set your foreground color to black and grab the Brush Tool with a soft edge, and the Opacity and Flow both set to 100%.

Start painting over the subject with the bad pose to reveal the good one in the layer underneath.

As you get into critical areas, zoom in and decrease the size of the brush for better accuracy. Take your time.

To make sure you haven’t missed anything, take a look at the mask. All the areas you want to hide should be black. If you have any white spots, check where they are in the image and paint over them if they should be hidden.

Last step is to crop and save. There you have it.

Tip: For this to work more effectively and save you time, don’t stop down the aperture too much when you’re shooting. In fact, keep it as wide open as you can unless you have a reason not to.

By keep the depth of field fairly shallow, more of the background is blurred, and you don’t have to do as much painting on the mask to blend elements together.

So, parting thought… is this cheating? I guess it’s a matter of opinion. You did have two shots with great poses of each person, just not together. In the scheme of things, that’s pretty tame in the cheating department.

How Adobe Photoshop Lightroom Changed My Workflow

About a month ago, I read a post by Thomas Hawk about his workflow, which inspired a friend of mine to blog about his own, so I started thinking about how mine has changed radically in the last few years.

The catalyst for this change is Adobe Photoshop Lightroom. Prior to Lightroom, my workflow consisted of:

  1. Downloading my images from the cards using Downloader Pro, which allows excellent control over tags and other IPTC data, including convenient presets.
  2. Using Photo Mechanic to do my initial triage, find my winners and losers, adjust tags and metadata as necessary and decide my editing strategy. (This is still the fastest photo browser I’ve ever used, even though it doesn’t come anywhere near Adobe Bridge in functionality.)
  3. Using Nikon Capture NX to do my initial color and tonality work. (At the time, there was some debate about whether you could trust Camera RAW to do the right thing with respect to Nikon’s proprietary white balance, which had to be reverse engineered. Having spent a prior career in the computer industry, I knew what “reverse engineering” meant, no offense to the most excellent Adobe Photoshop engineering team, without whose product I would be nowhere.)
  4. Using Adoble Photoshop to continue editing and produce the finished images in PSD format.
  5. Exporting the images as JPEGs, in high and low resolution (yes, two sets), so I have “finished” versions I can show the world or deliver to clients.
  6. Managing all these files manually—the initial RAW files in folders according to category, place, etc., and the corresponding PSD files and JPEG files with matching filenames, in matching folder structures. So, for example, image1.nef would have a matching image1.psd and two matching image1.jpg files in separate, identical folder trees.
  7. Backing up the shoot.

Thinking back, I wonder how I ever delivered anything without getting mired in my own processes, and how I ever kept track of the images without losing any of them.

All of that changed when Adobe Photoshop Lightroom arrived. It took a while to break out of the little box that I’d made for myself and think differently about how to manage my files and workflow, but once I got it, I never looked back.

In contrast with the above, my workflow today consists of:

  1. Importing my images from the card after creating or editing metadata and filename presets to match the shoot.
  2. Taking a first pass through all of them and flagging all the completely useless ones (out of focus, misfires, serious motion blur, etc.) as Rejects, then hiding them using the Attributes function, so I don’t have to keep looking at them.
  3. Taking a second pass to flag my edit candidates as Picks, making heavy use of the Compare View and Survey View as I need to, and flagging more Rejects as necessary. (I’ll often leave images as unflagged if I can’t decide or think I might find a use for them later.)
  4. Develop the Picks in the Develop module, going from there into Photoshop as needed (for masks, brushes, etc.—things Lightroom can’t do yet).
  5. Creating virtual copies to enable me to try different editing approaches and styles.
  6. Creating Collections as necessary as I go along.
  7. Taking a last pass through the images flagged as Picks or unflagged to see if I’ve missed anything.
  8. Exporting the Picks as necessary to display or deliver to the client.
  9. Backing up the shoot (before throwing away the Rejects—you just never know).

It seems like more steps, but once you get into the Lightroom philosophy, it’s a much more natural and sensible workflow. Once I got used to doing it this way and adopted it fully, my production times were cut in about half.

For me, the benefits of a Lightroom workflow are:

  1. Far superior editing capabilities between Lightroom and Photoshop than I ever had with Capture NX or Photoshop alone
  2. Freedom from having to manage all those files manually
  3. Not having to take up disk space with a collection of matching “finished” JPEGs. I simply export finished files in whatever format I need, whenever I need them.
  4. The ability to go back and try different ideas on a photo without taking up disk space with multiple copies, since all the edits are recorded in the catalogs.

A few caveats:

  1. I do not convert my RAW files to the Adobe Digital Negative (DNG) file format. I’ve heard all the arguments in favor of doing this and none of them are compelling enough for me to incorporate the extra step… yet. (Now, if the Lightroom developers ever announced that they will no longer support one of my RAW formats, that would be compelling enough.)
  2. I have Lightroom set to write all my changes to XMP sidecar files, so that I have the freedom to use other programs to work with the files if necessary. For this reason, I have Camera RAW set to use its own database rather than disturbing the sidecar files, so I don’t inadvertently mess up any delicate edits when I’m in there (which is rare).
  3. When I first converted my old manual file management system to Lightroom, I took the time to rename all my finished PSD files to conform to the “-edit” format Lightroom uses, just to be consistent, and then I manually stacked them with the original RAW files, as I would with any new files today.

I’d be interested in hearing about your workflows. We develop them to suit our own capabilities and styles, but it’s always good to get a different perspective.

Getting The Focus You Want Using Photoshop

Yellow HibiscusWhen I’m shooting florals, my weapon of choice is my old Micro-Nikkor 105mm f/2.8D macro lens (now superceded by the 105mm f/2.8G ED-IF AF-S VR).
Whenever possible, I like to shoot them wide open to accentuate the flower by creating as much bokeh as possible, blurring the background to minimize distractions in the frame.

This works well with some flowers, but with others, such as a hibiscus, it’s impossible to get the whole flower (or all the parts you want) in focus without stopping down the aperture to get better depth of field… which compromises the nice, smooth, blurred background you’re trying to achieve.

One of the tricks I’ve used in the past involved shooting several frames, each with a different part of the flower in focus, then using Photoshop to blend them together by loading the images as separate layers and carefully brushing away the blurry parts with layer masks, creating a single, in-focus image as a result.

This can be easy or hard, depending on the conditions you’re shooting in. If there’s any kind of wind, you’re chasing the flower around, trying to get it composed the way you want it. (This of course assumes you’re unable to clip the flower and take it inside—a great solution in your backyard, but botanical gardens tend to frown on that sort of thing.)

What this means in Photoshop is you need to align the layers exactly before blending them, which can be time consuming and frustrating, and may even require using Free Transform to bend parts of the flower into submission.

Enter Photoshop with the new and improved Auto-Align Layers and Auto-Blend Layers features. I’d heard a lot of hype around these new features and decided to take a little time to try them out. The results exceeded my expectations.

Here’s how you do it:

Shoot several frames, manually focusing on different parts of the flower. Use a tripod if you can to maximize your chances of getting the best results. Auto-Blend Layers does a good job, but my policy is to do what I can to help out the software whenever possible.

Load the images in Photoshop as separate layers. (If you’re using Lightroom 2, it has a convenient option to Open as Layers in Photoshop).

Select all the layers by clicking on the first one, then shift-clicking on the last one.

Go to the Edit menu and select Auto-Align Layers. When the dialog comes up, just leave it on Auto Projection setting, and click OK.

After it’s done, go to the Edit menu again and select Auto-Blend Layers. When that dialog comes up, select the Stack Images setting for the Blend Method and let ‘er rip.

That’s it! The results I got were amazing, and definitely worth the price of admission. I didn’t have to tweak the masks Photoshop created at all.

I’d be interested in hearing about your results with the new features. Feel free to leave me comments about how your images turned out using this method.

Aloha…